Lenzing Ag · VIE:LNZ
Lenzing — Textile Exchange — Texworld New York City July 2011
50 slides from Lenzing's conference presentation, July 2011
Slide 1: Textile Sustainability: Impacts, Integrity & Innovations
TEXTILE SUSTAINABILITY: IMPACTS, INTEGRITY & INNOVATIONS ANNE GILLESPIE TEXWORLD - NEW YORK CITY, JULY 2011
Slide 2: Textile Sustainability: Impacts, Integrity & Innovations
TEXTILE SUSTAINABILITY: IMPACTS, INTEGRITY & INNOVATIONS • Introduction to Textile Exchange • Why Textiles? Setting the context for sustainability • Innovations in Sustainability – resources and processes • The Role of Integrity – standards, certification, transparency • Q&A
Slide 3: Textile Exchange at a glance
• Non-profit, textile-focused, membership organization, founded 2002. • Staff in 8 countries • Originally focused on organic cotton, growing the market from $200 million in 2002 to over $4 billion in 2009 • 2010-2015: Moving into other sustainable textiles, due to membership demand. • Approximately
Slide 4: Global non-profit membership organization accelerating sustainable practices
As a global, non-profit, membership organization, we help accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.
Slide 5: New paradigm: sustainable textiles
New paradigm: “sustainable” textiles Old paradigm for a brand/retailer New paradigm Sustain- Organic cotton able Sustain- All textile sourcing able Textile sourcing Sustainability was a niche activity “I need integrated solutions” Organic was a clear option for cotton “I must green my whole supply c
Slide 6: Start here. Go anywhere.
Start here. Go anywhere. Suppliers Certifiers Training Consultants Reports Start here. Trade Go anywhere. White Associations Papers Industry Links and Working Blogs Groups OE, TE and Guidelines other Standards
Slide 7: Resources
resources Wouldn’t it be nice? Pre-screened links, blogs, articles, and research papers. Credible academics, consultants, experts, and peers. Someone you can contact 24/7 (well, almost) with all of those questions that keep you up at night.
Slide 8: Some of our training modules
SOME OF OUR TRAINING MODULES Key Mega-trends impacting Sourcing Learn how the key mega-trends are reshaping the market for sustainable textiles. Discover what Thekey brands Case are doing and for Sustainable why. What Sourcing will brands – Leading be asking you to do in the near Brand Perspective f
Slide 9: Why textiles?
Why textiles?
Slide 10: Impacts
Impacts People. Lots and lots of people. 9 billion by 2050. Waste. Water. Energy. Toxics. Climate. Biodiversity.
Slide 11: Textile waste occupies nearly 5% of landfill space
Textile waste occupies nearly 5% of all landfill space.
Slide 12: Recycled: There is no away
recycled There is no “away”. The loss, in dollar But there is a value of materials, due to the failure of solution. companies and individuals in the US to recycle, has been estimated at $30 billion per year.
Slide 13: Greenhouse Gas Emissions
Greenhouse Gas Emissions Polyester Nylon Source: Natureworks LCA PLA Production
Slide 14: Gallons of fresh water to make a cotton t-shirt
It takes 700 gallons of fresh water to make 1 cotton t-shirt.
Slide 15: 3 trillion gallons of water for fabric in 2009
In 2009, the world used 3 trillion gallons of fresh water to produce 132 billion pounds of fabric.
Slide 16: 20% of industrial water pollution from textiles
According to the World Bank: 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing.
Slide 17: 1 trillion kilowatt hours used yearly
1 trillion kilowatt hours used every year by the global textile industry = 10% of total global carbon impact
Slide 18: Sustainability: Innovation's New Frontier
Sustainability: Innovation’s New Frontier
Slide 19: Innovation's New Frontier
INNOVATION’S NEW FRONTIER New technologies, products, and services that are challenging existing systems New ways of creating value taking environmental challenges into account Environmentally better, eco-efficient ways to produce and provide products in order to support the transition to grea
Slide 20: The Context
THE CONTEXT
Slide 21: 6 Ways to More Sustainability
6 WAYS TO MORE SUSTAINABILITY 1- Reducing, Recycling & Upcycling 2- Renewable & Biodegradable 3- Re-Exploring Naturals 4- Doing More from Less 5- Water-Less 6- New Methods
Slide 22: 1- Reusing, Recycling & Upcycling
1- REUSING, RECYCLING & UPCYCLING
Slide 23: Reusing, Recycling and Upcycling
REUSING, RECYCLING AND UPCYCLING Recycled materials used in a wider and wider range of applications Zero-waste designs Design for disassembly, design for recyclability More and more take back programs with incentives Technology development for sorting and recycling
Slide 24: 2- Renewable & Biodegradable
2- RENEWABLE & BIODEGRADABLE
Slide 25: Renewable & Biodegradable
RENEWABLE & BIODEGRADABLE Avantium: pre-commercialisation of YXY technology to convert biomass into bio-polymers Teijin Biofront™ with a melting point 210C Arkema PA11 Rilsan® enter the market Rudolf Chemie: use of rape seed oil for textile auxiliaries Enzyme technology for textile process
Slide 26: 3- Re-Exploring Naturals
3- RE-EXPLORING NATURALS
Slide 27: Re-Exploring Naturals
RE-EXPLORING NATURALS Revived interest in natural fibres and their development Nettle projects in the Netherlands and the Himalayas Marginal fibres in research and development Alpaca – Kenaf – Kapok – Coir – Pineapple and Banana fibres Better and better, finer and finer - Better Cotton Initi
Slide 28: Bio-based Polymers and Cellulosics
BIO-BASED POLYMERS AND CELLULOSICS • Renewable raw materials an alternative to petroleum • Corn, soy, sugar, castor beans, bamboo, potatoes, eucalyptus and more • Closed loop systems and transparency are key
Slide 29: 4- Doing More From Less
4- DOING MORE FROM LESS
Slide 30: Clariant Advanced Denim
CLARIANT ADVANCED DENIM Conventional denim slasher INDIGO dye Advanced denim: pad/sizing-ox process Can be combined with gentle washing techniques Per batch: 92% less water 30% less energy 87% less cotton waste DIRESUL RDT dyes ARKOFIL DEN-FIX Source: Clariant
Slide 31: Huntsman: Avitera SE and Eriopon LT
HUNTSMAN: AVITERA™ SE AND ERIOPON® LT Next generation of reactive dyes COMMODITY BAT today AVITERA™ SE For 1 kg of cotton 50% water saving 50% process time saving 60-80 L 30-40 L 15-20 L 70% less energy 7h 5.5 h 4h Source: Huntsman
Slide 32: 5- Water-Less
5- WATER-LESS
Slide 33: Water-Less
WATER-LESS C02 dyeing The Yeh Group implements the new process developed by DyeCoo Textile Systems: waterless dyeing Laser technology WATTWASHTM: 97,5% water free denim washing treatment by Marithé et Francois Girbaud Plasma technologies Surface modification of different kinds of fibres to pro
Slide 34: 6- New Ways
6- NEw Ways — €
Slide 35: New Ways
6- NEW WAYS BioCouture Suzanne Lee & Central Saint Martins in London Bacterial-cellulose, grown in a laboratory, to produce clothing Spray-On fabric Fabrican & the Imperial College of London Instant sprayable non woven fabric 3D Printing Freedom of Creation with Jiri Evenhuis and Pauline van D
Slide 36: Effective Solutions Are Available
EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS ARE AVAILABLE Improved technologies and better skills are essential tools for supporting sustainable development Companies are in a dynamic situation of embracing sustainable development through innovative solutions throughout the supply chain Collaboration is key Need fo
Slide 37: Effective Solutions Are Not Enough
EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS ARE NOT ENOUGH THE ROLE OF CERTIFICATION IN ENSURING INTEGRITY OF ACTIONS AND CLAIMS
Slide 38: Integrity Is Key
INTEGRITY IS KEY • ‘Green’ market growing at a rapid pace • Incentive for businesses to capitalize on the growth in whatever way they can and risk of fraud • Lack of consistent use of terms • Consumer confusion and distrust of sustainability claims • Uneven playing field for companies that are doing
Slide 39: Integrity in business
Integrity in business is about more than just purity of intentions: it means understanding and taking all of the necessary steps to ensure that positive change is being achieved for the environment and/or communities. This involves understanding the sustainability issues being addressed, having a li
Slide 40: Standards, training and stakeholder engagement
Standards • OE 100 and OE Blended • Global Recycle Standard (GRS) • Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) • Content Claim Standard (CCS) • System improvements Training and Education • Guides and brochures on labeling laws, standards, and the certification process • Resource to textile companies and
Slide 41: Raw Material Source supply chain
Raw Gins Yarn Fabric Garment Brand Material Spinners Mill Maker Source TC RM RM TC TC RM RM RM RM RM W TC RM RM RM TC RM TC RM RM RM RM TC RM TC TC RM TC TC RM
Slide 42: Standard and Certification Body
Brand OC TC Standard + Certification Body
Slide 43: Raw Materials Certification
RAW MATERIALS CERTIFICATION Organic standards Recycled standards Responsible forestry standards
Slide 44: Process Certification
PROCESS CERTIFICATION • Standards CCS • Life cycle assessment/inventories
Slide 45: CCS Document Flow Diagram
CCS Document Flow Diagram a Material ~ Validation Document A document identifying A document issued by A document supplied the raw material being the certification body by the certification certified to the CCS. that verifies that a body that verifies that given company is the goods being qualified
Slide 46: Lenzing brand license preconditions
02. Preconditions for the granting and maintenance of a license to Licensee to use the Lenzing brands are that: (i) Lenzing has received a sample of each of Licensee’s final products, for which Licensee intends to use the Lenzing brands (“Contractual Products”) together with a completed and duly sig
Slide 47: Content Claim Standard
CONTENT CLAIM STANDARD Being able to verify a specific content claim is a fundamental step in Final Product ensuring product integrity. for sale to consumers • The CCS is a third-party certified standard that verifies the amount of a given raw material in a product. • It is a chain of custody standa
Slide 48: Comparison of standards: OE, GOTS, GRS, SCS, CCS
OE 100 OE Blended GOTS GRS SCS CCS Recycled Raw materials supported Organic cotton Organic cotton Organic fibers Recycled Recycled Any material by the standard materials materials Chain of custody tracking Transaction Transaction Transaction Transaction Auditable Transaction system certificates cert
Slide 49: Thank you!
Thank you! Anne Gillespie Director of Industry Integrity Textile Exchange [email protected] www.TextileExchange.org
Slide 50: 2011 Sustainable Textiles Conference, Barcelona
2011 Sustainable Textiles Conference to be held in September 2011 in Barcelona, Spain